Have you guys ever tried to redefine your life, and all you could manage to come up with were synonyms? Off late I had been feeling exactly that way, and had to get out of the city for a few days. That's how the Pondicherry trip was conceived.
But as with all things, what Man proposes God disposes. We missed our bus on 26th of June, Friday evening due to some extremely displeasing turn of events. So on early Saturday morning we started out in a cab. Even though we left by 7am, it took us almost six and a half hours to reach Pondicherry! So whoever says going in your own vehicle would take at least 1 hour lesser than what the bus takes, do a double-check!
We got some traffic till Hosur, but once past that, driving conditions were good. The air was still cool and the road surface lovely. But once you reach Krishnagiri, don't go on the flyover, instead take the left from NH 7, and after about 500mt, take the right turn. You get up on the NH 66, and this goes straight to Pondicherry. This road isn't really worthy of being called a National Highway! It’s a double-lane, pockmarked road with no lane markers and KSRTC buses plying through the same stretch. Our earlier average speed of 70 km/ph tanked down to 40 km/ph. A word of caution – if you intend to eat on the way, I suggest you have some heavy breakfast at Krishnagiri and lunch in Pondi. NH 66 goes through the backwaters of civilisation. Look out for HP gas pumps to find a washroom in case of an emergency.
We finally reached Pondicherry around 2pm, and went straight to the Rishi Aurobindo ashram. Beyond the busy street, the entrance is just 10mt away. And when you are standing besides the great sage's resting place, the outside world just falls off from your consciousness, and your mind goes blank! The only thing I remember from that first visit is the pattern in which the brilliantly coloured flowers were arranged on the tomb. The next day when we visited the place again, I noticed that there was a new pattern in which the flowers were arranged.
We stayed at the Ashram for about 20mins on the first visit. We hadn’t booked a room, so searching for a hotel was very high up on the list. Luckily June-end happens to be off-season in Pondi. Unluckily the weather was mind-numbingly humid, hovering around 80%, and there was no tourist rush for the exact same reason. We managed to get lodging on our fourth attempt, at a hotel facing the sea. The service was pretty much up to the mark, except that you should go out for the big meals. The restaurants are good and decently priced, but the room delivery was a disaster.
After a couple of hours’ rest at the hotel, we set out on a quick trip around the beach road for the sunset. The evenings are pretty cool with a strong breeze that makes walking around quite a joy. We visited the old lighthouse first. Though no one is allowed to go in, we were pretty sure that the view from up there would have been amazing with dusk settling in. We also went to the main square with a live band playing both English and Kannada songs. You just laze around and take your pick as to which ones to lend an ear to! Right opposite the main square is a statute of the Mahatma, with eight beautifully sculptured pillars surrounding it. These are from the 12th century Chola dynasty, and off course they have been transported here and erected by the ASI (for the ignoramus, that’s Archaeological Survey of India).
On the beach road beside the statue of Mahatma, there's another very interesting place you should visit – an 80-year old coffee shop, La Cafe. The coffee can compete easily with Barista and CCD, and the ambience is mind-blowing! Just imagine sipping an Irish coffee with the sea breeze tussling your hair, listening to the breaking of the waves and looking at the dark water stretching to eternity!
We wound up our first day's stay at around 9pm and decided to get to the hotel and order dinner from room-service. That is the mistake I was talking about a while back. But well, you win some and lose some. We kept the room AC switched off and the balcony door open. Good night's sleep!
Showing posts with label Beach. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Beach. Show all posts
The French Riviera of the East - II
Now to continue with our journey in Pondicherry, we woke up without an intervening alarm at 5:30am. Nice cool breeze blowing and an almost cloudless sky turning an orangish purple. Haven't had better starts to the day! And just when the sun is about to come up, in trots a troop of about 20 people, standing right at the edge of the beach road, babbling and clicking pictures. Thanks people for the reminder that I am still in India! We had some 20 minutes of quiet before the circus, and a few marvelous shots of the sky gradually changing colour. So thankfully, it was not a complete disaster.
We had a quick breakfast and decided to visit Auroville before the sun made its ascent to the higher reaches. We started out about 8:30 in an auto-rickshaw. One small advice - bargain at will with the auto-wallahs and do not agree to anything above 200 bucks. Auroville is about 15kms away, and if you plan to go to the beach nearby, then the round trip would be anywhere between 35 and 40kms. So, another 30 odd bucks added in will be a good deal.
It took us a little over 40mins to get to Auroville. Once you enter the fenced area, after 50mts you will see the main information center on your left. This building also serves as a museum to the life and work of the Mother, and showcases the achievements of Aurovillites in the areas of sustainable and eco-friendly development. We also watched a 5mins video on Auroville and its extravagant architecture. The Mother started thinking about environmentally-sustainable development more than 30 years ago. The world could count the number of people with similar thoughts at that time!
There is a dome built in honour of the Mother that acts as the meditation center for Aurovillites. It is called the Matri-mandir and is a spectacular view, rising over 100mts from the ground in the shape of a sphere and is built about 200mts from a very old banyan tree (around 300 years old). By the time we reached back the information center it was already past 11, and the scorching heat of the previous day had returned to haunt us. So we dropped our plan to visit the beach, and headed back to Pondi for a cool lunch at the hotel's restaurant.
With the sun blazing away in full glory, we took a nap for about an hour and started out on foot at 3pm. First destination was the Pondicherry museum that houses a good coin collection dating back to almost 300AD, and a decent collection of sculptures, mostly from the Chalukya dynasty. Though Belur-Halebidu offers a greater variety of styles and concepts in sculpting from a similar period, the museum does not bore you. We went to the Ashram after this, and spent some perfectly quiet minutes besides the great Rishi. We also went through some of the publications by the Ashram, and though the themes are similar, the number of languages covered in those publications is quite amazing.
A brief walk to the old lighthouse on our way to La Cafe from the Ashram, and another ½ hour spent at coffee shop – heaven! The next hour went in a frenzy of shopping, and by the time we laid our guns (read wallets) down, it was already 6pm.
There's a jetty that is visible from the beach road, near to the Port Authority enclosure. Walk down the beach road and just as the road turns right, you will come across a gas station. There's a narrow road branching off from the beach road at this point that reaches the dock gates. There are no entry charges. Walk through the gate and to your north-north-west (at '10-o-clock') you will see another gate about 200mts away. That gate leads straight to the jetty. Families need to shell out about 50 bucks per person, but an all-guys group can always bargain with the policemen at the dock gates.
The sight from the tip of the jetty is mind-blowing. It ends around 150mts into the sea, so the breeze is pretty strong there, and by the time we went, all the lights had been lit up, so the whole coastline was a series sparkling dots! The new light house also started sending directional beams about every 45secs. We stayed for 30mins since it had become quite dark and returned to the hotel.
After a quick shower and a happy dinner later, we checked out of the hotel by 8:30pm. The return bus was at 10:30pm, and we reached the pick-up point around 9:30pm. Well, let’s just say things went as per schedule, the Indian Stretchable Time schedule! The bus finally arrived at 11pm and started off at 11:15pm. The return journey was not very pleasant or memorable. Not exactly the kind of journey one can expect to end a trip like this. We reached Bangalore about 7am, and to the beginning of another long, drawn-out week. Guess I need to pack up again soon, just can't see me sticking to that chair for long!
We had a quick breakfast and decided to visit Auroville before the sun made its ascent to the higher reaches. We started out about 8:30 in an auto-rickshaw. One small advice - bargain at will with the auto-wallahs and do not agree to anything above 200 bucks. Auroville is about 15kms away, and if you plan to go to the beach nearby, then the round trip would be anywhere between 35 and 40kms. So, another 30 odd bucks added in will be a good deal.
It took us a little over 40mins to get to Auroville. Once you enter the fenced area, after 50mts you will see the main information center on your left. This building also serves as a museum to the life and work of the Mother, and showcases the achievements of Aurovillites in the areas of sustainable and eco-friendly development. We also watched a 5mins video on Auroville and its extravagant architecture. The Mother started thinking about environmentally-sustainable development more than 30 years ago. The world could count the number of people with similar thoughts at that time!
There is a dome built in honour of the Mother that acts as the meditation center for Aurovillites. It is called the Matri-mandir and is a spectacular view, rising over 100mts from the ground in the shape of a sphere and is built about 200mts from a very old banyan tree (around 300 years old). By the time we reached back the information center it was already past 11, and the scorching heat of the previous day had returned to haunt us. So we dropped our plan to visit the beach, and headed back to Pondi for a cool lunch at the hotel's restaurant.
With the sun blazing away in full glory, we took a nap for about an hour and started out on foot at 3pm. First destination was the Pondicherry museum that houses a good coin collection dating back to almost 300AD, and a decent collection of sculptures, mostly from the Chalukya dynasty. Though Belur-Halebidu offers a greater variety of styles and concepts in sculpting from a similar period, the museum does not bore you. We went to the Ashram after this, and spent some perfectly quiet minutes besides the great Rishi. We also went through some of the publications by the Ashram, and though the themes are similar, the number of languages covered in those publications is quite amazing.
A brief walk to the old lighthouse on our way to La Cafe from the Ashram, and another ½ hour spent at coffee shop – heaven! The next hour went in a frenzy of shopping, and by the time we laid our guns (read wallets) down, it was already 6pm.
There's a jetty that is visible from the beach road, near to the Port Authority enclosure. Walk down the beach road and just as the road turns right, you will come across a gas station. There's a narrow road branching off from the beach road at this point that reaches the dock gates. There are no entry charges. Walk through the gate and to your north-north-west (at '10-o-clock') you will see another gate about 200mts away. That gate leads straight to the jetty. Families need to shell out about 50 bucks per person, but an all-guys group can always bargain with the policemen at the dock gates.
The sight from the tip of the jetty is mind-blowing. It ends around 150mts into the sea, so the breeze is pretty strong there, and by the time we went, all the lights had been lit up, so the whole coastline was a series sparkling dots! The new light house also started sending directional beams about every 45secs. We stayed for 30mins since it had become quite dark and returned to the hotel.
After a quick shower and a happy dinner later, we checked out of the hotel by 8:30pm. The return bus was at 10:30pm, and we reached the pick-up point around 9:30pm. Well, let’s just say things went as per schedule, the Indian Stretchable Time schedule! The bus finally arrived at 11pm and started off at 11:15pm. The return journey was not very pleasant or memorable. Not exactly the kind of journey one can expect to end a trip like this. We reached Bangalore about 7am, and to the beginning of another long, drawn-out week. Guess I need to pack up again soon, just can't see me sticking to that chair for long!
Down to the southernmost tip of India
A long-awaited destination, a curiosity and a fascination – the thirst of all were quenched! I won’t say Kanyakumari is a treat for the adventure lovers but it has a different charm in itself. The conjunction of the three seas and being the southernmost part of India – with Sri Lanka being just 300 km away – you feel like you have hit one corner of the world.
Kanyakumari is some 680 km and by bus it will take around 12 hours to reach. To save time, we took the shorter, and of course costlier route. On Saturday early morning, we took a Kingfisher flight from Bangalore to Trivandrum and then a cab after that for the 80 km distance till Kanyakumari district. There are limited flight options though, the planes themselves are small and are two-seaters throughout.
The flight timing was one and a half hours, then another 4 hours from Trivandrum. But it was worth the expense because the green outfield that lay before us on the way is a treat for the eyes. We reached by noon and luckily the driver took us to a hotel with a view of the Thiruvallur and Vivekananda Rock, set amongst the majestic water waves. We stayed in a place called – Sebaa Palace – and the room cost us 650 bucks a night, a lot lesser than a hotel called Hotel Sea View (4,000 bucks a night), which of course had a complete, unrestricted view of the sea. But it is an option for people who are ready to shell out some extra cash. Again, be sure of booking a place during the peak season.
Many people warned us about the rains and humidity in June, because of which we had our rain gear ready with us. But we were quite lucky since we faced mild rainfall, along with lots of sun and wind.
An evening’s rest and a walk in the market refreshed us enough for an early rise the next day to watch the sunrise. Though it was a bit cloudy, we could catch a glimpse of the red sky. Around 9 am we headed off for the rocks. The steamers cost 20 bucks for a round trip. The route is – shore till Vivekananda Rock, from there to Thiruvallur Statue and then back to shore – none of the short distance ferries are accessible on foot. The time it takes to wait for the next ferry to frisk you to the next destination – you really will wish for a much faster foot-bridge.
The wind is extremely strong in the two rocks, it feels wonderful. You can buy some memorabilia at the Vivekananda Rock. There is one map here that tracks the summer and winter solstice, and a sun-clock. Thiruvallur statue itself is 133 ft tall (besides the pedestal it is put on!!!). The local people said, during Tsunami, the water reached till the statue’s shoulder! No surprises that Kanyakumari was one of the worst affected regions during the natural calamity.
We were back on shore by 11.30 am and went straight for the Kanyakumari temple, set right near the beach. We were sweating like pigs by the time we came out. There are quite a few shell, conch and clothes shops on the way to the temple. I noticed a new tradition in the temples here, which many of you must be aware of already – the male population has to discard their clothing covering their torso before they can enter the temple premises.
A quick lunch later, we started off for Padmanabhapuram Palace, Thiraparappu Falls and Hanuman temple. The entire distance was a round trip of around 150 km through Kerela borders.
Well, it will still be an understatement if I say the palace was humongous! Set amongst beatific, cloud covered hills; the wooden palace was definitely the king’s pride. Even after an hour’s walk in the palace and skirting a portion, we still couldn’t see the entire place. The thing that struck me the most was the flooring of the entire building. Since there was no cement 300 years back, the floor composition was made of jaggery, lime, egg white, river sand, charcoal. It was almost edible and to think of the volume of the materials that went in!
The Thiraparappu waterfall wasn’t as exciting enough as we thought. It was crowded with many people bathing in the artificial fall. Also, many of them were drunk, making the place quite unsuitable for family outings. A bit higher up, there is Thiraparappu temple and boating area where public nuisance is much lesser.
I will suggest you go to the Hanuman temple only if you want to give alms to the lord. It was again quite dark and hot inside, not much of my taste. It is just 18 km from the district, so you can stop by anytime.
One day’s activities finally got over – and you can well imagine how tired we were. We were asleep before we hit the bed.
Rising to another morning’s sunrise and our day of returning, we went for a walk till Sangam and Gandhi Memorial. Sangam is the place from where is it said the three distinct colours of Arabian, Indian and Bay of Bengal can be made out. Gandhi Memorial has his portrait, etched on granite and a rock pedestal. It is said that on 2nd of October every year, the sun shines down for twenty minutes on the rock from a hole above. We chatted with the caretaker – Jalaal – who gave us the details. Jalaal is with the memorial for an astonishing 38 years, so it felt great talking to someone with such fervor for the place.
After a quick bath at the hotel, we checked out and took a cab around noon so that we could visit Kovalam beach. En route, we also visited Kanyakumari church. Our flight was at 7.45 pm, which gave us enough time to stop over at the beach. A lazy lunch and sudden bursts of rain, the rough and vibrant sea, climb a small rock for better view of the waves and coffee at an open air restaurant by the water – it did feel nice.
The beach was just 20 minutes away from the airport and we reached way too early for the flight. The small airport and its meager crowd was quite a different and refreshing experience from the ever-busy Bangalore airport. We were home by 10.30 pm and ready for office the next day.
Kanyakumari is some 680 km and by bus it will take around 12 hours to reach. To save time, we took the shorter, and of course costlier route. On Saturday early morning, we took a Kingfisher flight from Bangalore to Trivandrum and then a cab after that for the 80 km distance till Kanyakumari district. There are limited flight options though, the planes themselves are small and are two-seaters throughout.
The flight timing was one and a half hours, then another 4 hours from Trivandrum. But it was worth the expense because the green outfield that lay before us on the way is a treat for the eyes. We reached by noon and luckily the driver took us to a hotel with a view of the Thiruvallur and Vivekananda Rock, set amongst the majestic water waves. We stayed in a place called – Sebaa Palace – and the room cost us 650 bucks a night, a lot lesser than a hotel called Hotel Sea View (4,000 bucks a night), which of course had a complete, unrestricted view of the sea. But it is an option for people who are ready to shell out some extra cash. Again, be sure of booking a place during the peak season.
Many people warned us about the rains and humidity in June, because of which we had our rain gear ready with us. But we were quite lucky since we faced mild rainfall, along with lots of sun and wind.
An evening’s rest and a walk in the market refreshed us enough for an early rise the next day to watch the sunrise. Though it was a bit cloudy, we could catch a glimpse of the red sky. Around 9 am we headed off for the rocks. The steamers cost 20 bucks for a round trip. The route is – shore till Vivekananda Rock, from there to Thiruvallur Statue and then back to shore – none of the short distance ferries are accessible on foot. The time it takes to wait for the next ferry to frisk you to the next destination – you really will wish for a much faster foot-bridge.
The wind is extremely strong in the two rocks, it feels wonderful. You can buy some memorabilia at the Vivekananda Rock. There is one map here that tracks the summer and winter solstice, and a sun-clock. Thiruvallur statue itself is 133 ft tall (besides the pedestal it is put on!!!). The local people said, during Tsunami, the water reached till the statue’s shoulder! No surprises that Kanyakumari was one of the worst affected regions during the natural calamity.
We were back on shore by 11.30 am and went straight for the Kanyakumari temple, set right near the beach. We were sweating like pigs by the time we came out. There are quite a few shell, conch and clothes shops on the way to the temple. I noticed a new tradition in the temples here, which many of you must be aware of already – the male population has to discard their clothing covering their torso before they can enter the temple premises.
A quick lunch later, we started off for Padmanabhapuram Palace, Thiraparappu Falls and Hanuman temple. The entire distance was a round trip of around 150 km through Kerela borders.
Well, it will still be an understatement if I say the palace was humongous! Set amongst beatific, cloud covered hills; the wooden palace was definitely the king’s pride. Even after an hour’s walk in the palace and skirting a portion, we still couldn’t see the entire place. The thing that struck me the most was the flooring of the entire building. Since there was no cement 300 years back, the floor composition was made of jaggery, lime, egg white, river sand, charcoal. It was almost edible and to think of the volume of the materials that went in!
The Thiraparappu waterfall wasn’t as exciting enough as we thought. It was crowded with many people bathing in the artificial fall. Also, many of them were drunk, making the place quite unsuitable for family outings. A bit higher up, there is Thiraparappu temple and boating area where public nuisance is much lesser.
I will suggest you go to the Hanuman temple only if you want to give alms to the lord. It was again quite dark and hot inside, not much of my taste. It is just 18 km from the district, so you can stop by anytime.
One day’s activities finally got over – and you can well imagine how tired we were. We were asleep before we hit the bed.
Rising to another morning’s sunrise and our day of returning, we went for a walk till Sangam and Gandhi Memorial. Sangam is the place from where is it said the three distinct colours of Arabian, Indian and Bay of Bengal can be made out. Gandhi Memorial has his portrait, etched on granite and a rock pedestal. It is said that on 2nd of October every year, the sun shines down for twenty minutes on the rock from a hole above. We chatted with the caretaker – Jalaal – who gave us the details. Jalaal is with the memorial for an astonishing 38 years, so it felt great talking to someone with such fervor for the place.
After a quick bath at the hotel, we checked out and took a cab around noon so that we could visit Kovalam beach. En route, we also visited Kanyakumari church. Our flight was at 7.45 pm, which gave us enough time to stop over at the beach. A lazy lunch and sudden bursts of rain, the rough and vibrant sea, climb a small rock for better view of the waves and coffee at an open air restaurant by the water – it did feel nice.
The beach was just 20 minutes away from the airport and we reached way too early for the flight. The small airport and its meager crowd was quite a different and refreshing experience from the ever-busy Bangalore airport. We were home by 10.30 pm and ready for office the next day.
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